April 14, 2019
After my epic failure last time around (see Butterscotch Banana Cream Pie), I needed an epic redemption. So I created a new kind of pie: Cannoli pie. You can search up recipes with the title “Cannoli Pie” on the Internet, but they all have a regular ol’ pie crust and the filling is usually cream-cheese-based. They’ll have pistachios or chocolate chips and that’s supposed to make it taste like the deep-fried ricotta-cheese goodness of a cannoli? No thank you. Although it’s admittedly been quite a long time since I’ve actually had a cannoli, I have many fond memories of Mike’s Pastry in Boston, discovering what a good Italian pastry can do for a person. I needed to re-create that in pie form.
It’s pretty simple: cannolis have a deep-fried shell and a sweetened ricotta cheese filling. All I’d need to do is get a recipe for actual cannolis and turn the cylindrical shell into a bowl-shaped pie crust, and throw in the filling. But the hard part was going to be how to deep-fry dough and have it keep the shape of a pie. After discussing it with our friend Bryan, he suggested getting some wire mesh and making a form. So that’s what I did. I found some small-gauge chicken wire at Michael’s, and after a couple of attempts (yes, I did this two times this week in preparation for today’s actual pie), I figured out that the best way was to use one sheet of wire for the bottom, shaped into pie form, then another as sort of a cap to press the dough down as it bubbles and rises in the oil:

The other thing I needed to figure out was that all the cannoli recipes I could find called for white wine as an ingredient in the pastry. That’s not something we have or want to have around the house, so I read online that white wine vinegar was an adequate substitute. So we got some of that, and the first practice pastry used vinegar. It was a bit smelly, and the kids got turned off. When all was said and done, you could definitely taste it in the crust, and although it wasn’t terrible, it wasn’t the best. A little more research revealed that the wine/vinegar is used for flavor, but mostly for its acidity – it makes the gluten soft and elastic, which means you can roll it out thin which makes it crispier when fried (I learned that through trial and error too). Another acidic liquid you can use is buttermilk. That had the same effect on the dough, but it tasted a lot better.
Anyway, after placing the dough into the two-part form, when inserted into the pot of oil, it was necessary to use a mason jar to push it down, as the frying dough floats.

It worked perfectly. The result was a deep-fried pie shell that looks like a cannoli shell:

Then it was just a matter of whipping up some ricotta cheese with powdered sugar, vanilla, whipped cream, and mini chocolate chips. I found several recipes with very different ratios of ingredients, so I just kind of did it to taste – that also meant I got to keep snitching it over and over. Fearing that the filling-to-shell ratio would be a little out of whack, though, I fried a bunch of dough stars (using Kate’s Pay-doh cookie cutter) and arranged them on the top. Then a dusting of powdered sugar.

How did it taste? Just like a cannoli! The kids weren’t thrilled about the somewhat grainy texture of ricotta cheese. Shelly even reminded me that when she orders a cannoli, she’ll get a chocolate mousse one for that reason too. But this pie had a crunch and that sweet creamy goodness, and mini chocolate chips, and it was like I was back in the North End. Only eating pie. It was fantastic. Now I just need to think of what other pies could use a deep-fried crust..
-Matt
Crust recipe:
2C flour, 2 T sugar, 1/4 t salt, Half a stick of butter, 1 egg, enough buttermilk to make it stick together.












